Anthurium Veitchii is a very large plant, which differs from other species of the genus. It originated in Colombia and has been cultivated since 1876.
Typically, this plant is 6.6 feet tall and has long elongated, wrinkled-folded leaves with lateral veins on the same long petioles. The leaves are sturdily corrugated and look like nice abdominal abs.
Peduncle goes about 50 cm long. It is 3-4 cm wide, semi-heart-shaped at the base, pale green or greenish-brown. Anthurium veitchii rarely bears fruit in cultivation.
Caring Tips for Anthurium Veitchii
1. Soil for the plant
Anthurium veitchii requires a coarse-fibrous mixture of leafy soil with sphagnum and light sod. The soil has to have a pH value of slightly acidic, ranging between 5 and 6.
The presence of large pieces of pine bark in the substrate is welcome. Also, the soil should easily pass air and water to the bush’s roots. To improve drainage, coarse-grained river sand, or perlite, and a small amount of charcoal is mixed into the ground.
Keep the soil evenly moist during the warm season when Anthurium Veitchii is actively developing, and reduce watering to a minimum in winter.
The top layer of soil can dry out between watering to a depth of about 1-2 cm. These flowers appreciate a warm shower with a water temperature of about 40 ° C in the warm season.
Anthurium Veitchii has large roots that can store some water and tolerate a short drought better than a bay. Excess moisture accumulated in the pan after watering must be drained. For irrigation, use only water at room temperature that has been separated during the day.
Anthurium Veitchii is fertilized two times a month during the growing season to appear many flowers. Fertilizers for this plant should contain a sufficient amount of phosphorus and potassium.
The solution is diluted to half the dose recommended on the package. Plant overfed with nitrogen abundantly increase green mass to the detriment of flowering.
For top dressing, you can use fertilizers for azaleas or hydrangeas because they do not contain calcium, which will maintain the necessary acidic pH of the soil.
4. Top dressing
Top dressing is carried out only on wet soil after watering since the nutrient solution can burn the root system in dry soil. It can be reduced or stopped altogether in the winter months and resumed only with new growth in the spring.
Since Anthurium Veitchii belongs to epiphytes, it will be useful to carry out top foliar dressing directly on the leaf plates using a spray gun.
When spraying anthurium veitchii, it prefers high humidity because cold drafts are detrimental to the plant. Use a tray with damp pebbles, sphagnum moss, or a humidifier.
Spraying anthurium with tap water is undesirable because it can leave ugly whitish spots on the leaves. If you still cannot do without spraying, spray in the morning so that the moisture has time to evaporate from the leaves before dark.
When pruning anthurium veitchii, you need to move the plant outside to fresh air during the warmer months. Sometimes it requires sanitary pruning where discolored and old leaves are cut at the base of the plant with a sharp, sterile instrument.
Also, when the plant changes the bedspread color, it turns green. Often this is due to errors in growing anthurium – insufficient lighting, an excess amount of nitrogen fertilizers, or non-compliance with the temperature regime.
This is normal if anthurium veitchii stops developing for several months, which usually happens in winter. The rapid growth of leaves will occur in the spring when the long daylight hours come, making you prune them.
Faded buds are removed with twisting movements at the base of the peduncle. In this way, it will come out completely without a trace.
The location of the anthurium veitchii should be such that indoor flowers receive at least four hours of bright light every day but only in the morning and evening hours.
Without exposure to direct sun, this plant does not bloom in more shaded conditions and slows down its growth. However, direct rays on the leaves at noon can cause sunburn.
For the plant not to tilt towards the light source, the pot is rotated every week around its axis by a quarter of a turn.
In the autumn-winter period, successful cultivation may require artificial supplementary lighting with fluorescent or phytolamps. This will provide the plant with 12-14 hour daylight hours.
Anthurium veitchii is a heat-loving plant where the temperature is considered optimal at around 21 °C at night and 25°C during the day.
In winter, the plant should be placed in a cool room at a temperature of about 15 °C for 1.5 – 3 months. At this time, the plant will gain strength for subsequent abundant flowering.
Propagation of anthurium veitchii
By dividing adult plants during transplantation, new plants bloom at one year. Each anthurium veitchii should have several leaves and a fairly developed root system.
Age specimens that have shed old leaves at the base of the stems can be rejuvenated. The apical cutting is cut off and rooted in water or vermiculite.
The cuttings are separated with a sharp pruner, and most of the leaves, buds, and flowers are removed from them. After that, the cuttings are kept at optimum conditions where they grow into a plant.
Pests and diseases
Sometimes pests appear on the flower. Signs of the presence of aphids on the plant are twisted and spotty leaf blades. The signs of the appearance of spider mites can be the yellowing edges of the leaves, and the cobweb stretched between them.
Thrips also cause leaf blades to become mottled and are often found on young leaves. Sometimes the plant is attacked by a scale insect.
Anthurium veitchii is a semi-epiphyte plant characterized by beautiful, large, heart-shaped leaves and a bright flower with an ear. It reaches a height of 6.6 feet and grows slowly.
The leaves are leathery and can have different shapes and sizes: heart-shaped, spatulate, broadly lanceolate, elongated, rounded, entire, or dissected. With the above growing tips, this plant will grow well.