Hoya Mathilde is a hybrid of fleshy hoya obtained in the 1990s. The leaves are juicy and glossy, the stems are pubescent, and the flowers are collected in dense umbrellas.
The flowers are velvety, white with a slight greenish tint, and the branch is about 1.5 mm thick. It has oval leaves of 3 cm long and 2 cm wide with flower umbels, consisting of 15-20 flowers.
The corolla is white or pale pink and is 2 cm in diameter, and the crown is white with a red center. Likewise, the smell of Hoya Mathilde is quite strong, sweet, and reminiscent of a tulip.
Care tips for Hoya Mathilde
Hoya Mathilde is succulent, and according to the conditions of growth in the wild, it is close to epiphytes. This explains why it does not like excess moisture.
Only light, breathable soil is suitable for this flower. This will also reduce the risk of fungal diseases. The best basis for the substrate is expanded clay. You can also use perlite, sphagnum, high peat. Drainage is also required.
In the wild, Hoya Mathilde always grows in the shade of large trees. When determining a room for this plant, excluding exposure to direct sunlight at noon is necessary.
At the same time, the lack of light will adversely affect the appearance of the flower the color of its foliage. Only good lighting will provide a bright silver speck. Window sills on the east or west side are well suited for placing vines. If it is north, photo lamps may be required.
Hoya Mathilde prefers infrequent but intensive watering. Between water procedures, the top layer of soil should dry out by 3-4 cm. This provides the necessary aeration of the plant’s root system.
In the summer, a warm shower can be arranged for a flower, imitating a tropical downpour. The water temperature should not exceed 40°C.
Such procedures are possible as long as the size of the plant allows it. At the same time, the leaching of minerals from the substrate must be compensated by subsequent top dressing.
The optimum temperature is between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, although Hoya Mathilde can withstand temperatures as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The flower’s room should be ventilated, but it does not tolerate drafts well.
Hoya Mathilde easily tolerates a short drought, but excess moisture in the soil is detrimental to a flower. The humidity in the room should be moderate. In cool conditions, watering the plant should be reduced to a minimum.
6. Top dressing
Hoya Mathilde is a slow-growing plant densely covered with foliage. Top dressing requires the main elements: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. They are contained in mineral complexes of the whole composition of NPK in pre-calculated proportions.
Young plants require a high dose of nitrogen to form leaves and are given a 2-1-2 or even 3-1-2 formulation. To stimulate flowering during the dormant period, the proportion of nitrogen is reduced and fertilized at a concentration of 5-10-5.
Hoya Mathilde requires regular transplantation to maintain decorative properties. Young plant transplanted every year, adults – once every 3-4 years. Before flowering, this is done in the spring, using the transshipment method without disturbing the earthy coma.
The new container should be slightly larger (2-3 cm) than the previous one. Otherwise, the Hoya Mathilde will develop the root system to the detriment of budding until it fills the container.
When transplanting, an audit of the roots is carried out, removing the sick and damaged. Then try to keep the soil level 1-2 cm below the edge of the walls.
a) Propagation by cuttings
This is the most common propagation method. The cuttings are cut from the previous year’s shoots no more than 8 cm long with two leaves.
Remove the milky juice with running water and cut off the two bottom sheets. Then place the cutting in water or immediately in a loose substrate – perlite or vermiculite and build a greenhouse on top.
After 2-3 weeks, roots sprout from a node in water or soil. The sprout is transferred to a permanent place. Such a plant begins to bloom in about four years.
b) Propagation by air layers
Hoya Mathilde is close to epiphytes in terms of growth conditions. They quickly form aerial roots. A node is released from the leaves near the top of a long shoot. It is pinned to the soil’s surface in a separate cup and sprinkled on the substrate.
The end of the stem with leaves must remain free, and new roots will begin to grow at the buried node. After rooting, the layering is separated from the mother plant and planted separately. The advantage of this method is that Hoya Mathilde can bloom the following year.
Diseases and Pests
Hoya Mathilde is attacked by various fungi identified by disinfecting the soil. External signs can be specks with clear boundaries or plaque on leaves and stems. The plant is sprayed with fungicides and antibiotics when dealing with fungi.
The plant can be attacked by bacterial wilt and bacterial spotting. They are treated with antibiotics and microbiological preparations.
Mosaic disease, leaf curl, and yellowing of leaves also attack the plant. It is difficult to fight them, although there are antiviral drugs. It is much easier to carry out prevention by destroying sucking insects that are carriers of viruses.
The affected parts of the plant are destroyed, the hands are thoroughly washed after work, and the inventory is disinfected.
Hoya Mathilde can threaten by root nematode, scab, and mealybug. Signs of nematode are stunting, the root system’s death, and the formation of growths on the roots.
A characteristic white coating will signal the presence of a mealybug. The insecticides can be applied to the affected areas.
Hoya Mathilde is the attractive plant. From its wonderful fragrance to small clusters of white and pink fluffy flowers and tiny silver spotted leaves.
Grow Hoya Mathilde in a pot on a small trellis or in a hanging basket and let it overflow over the edge of the planter. You will get a delightful cascade of exquisite greenery that can decorate any interior.