Anthurium Papillilaminum is the well-known plant grown for its splendid foliage. It has juvenile leaves and burgundy shades that mature to 90cm dark-green coriaceous leaves with prominent white veining.
Its bold and big leaves clearly show its natural links with the jungle. Nevertheless, with proper care, Anthurium Papillilaminum can dwell equally like indoor environments. Its shiny and velvety leaves are superb enough to decorate different corners of your garden or home.
Anthurium Oapillilaminum Caring Tips
Anthurium Papillilaminum loves relatively bright light but without scorching direct sun. Most of all, windows facing east or west are suitable for this. If you place this plant on a southern windowsill, it will need protection from the sun.
And in the north for the plant, it is worth making additional lighting in the winter. For illumination, it is better to use phyto or fluorescent lamps.
If the plant does not have enough light, but there is no opportunity to make additional lighting, you need to reduce watering and stop feeding.
When placing an Anthurium Papillilaminum, one must remember drafts that it simply does not tolerate. It is also necessary to maintain the distance between the plants; they should not touch each other with leaves.
The soil mix should be light, well-drained, air-permeable, nutritious, and water-permeable. Typically, stagnant water causes root rot. The composition should include coarse sand and charcoal. You can use a particular soil for Anthurium Papillilaminum.
Anthurium Papillilaminum should be protected from drafts; they are very harmful to plants and can even lead to death. Plants are very thermophilic; the most suitable temperature is about 18 to 25 °C.
During winter, Anthurium Papillilaminum should be kept at least 16 degrees. If you keep it at this temperature for two months and rarely water it, it can provoke the plant’s flowering.
Anthurium Papillilaminum needs moderate watering after the soil dries out. One time in 3-4 days in summer and one time per week in winter.
Be careful because the plant’s soil is better to dry than waterlogged. Do not let the Anthurium Papillilaminum pot stand in a pan of water. The quality of water is very important for a flower. It should be warm and settled for at least two days.
5. Air humidity
Anthurium Papillilaminum needs constant air humidity – at least 65%, and in the apartment, this humidity will most likely not be enough.
To humidify the air around the plant, you need to put a flower pot on a pallet with wet expanded clay or sand or buy an air humidifier. Also, to raise the humidity of the air, you should spray the air around the plant, but in no case should the waterfall on its leaves.
This is because the water on the leaves will turn into a white indelible coating, which will make your Anthurium Papillilaminum unattractive.
It is also necessary to arrange a shower for the plant, washing off the dust from the leaves. After this procedure, the drops of water remaining on the leaves must be removed with a soft cloth.
It is necessary to feed the Anthurium Papillilaminum about once a month with a complex fertilizer for aroids, but the recommended dose should be exactly halved. You can also fertilize with fertilizer for orchids.
7. Top dressing
In spring and summer, the Anthurium Papillilaminum is fed once every two weeks with aroid fertilizers, reducing the concentration indicated in the instructions two times. Periodically, along with watering, it is helpful to carry out the top foliar dressing.
Young Anthurium Papillilaminum is transplanted in 2 years, and adults one time in 3-4 years. The main thing is not to miss the moment when the plant’s roots will braid the entire space of the pot.
The key to the plant’s flowering is that the pot is larger than the root system. Choose acidic soil for Anthurium Papillilaminum, or make your own.
The soil needs to consist of leafy earth, peat, and sand with bark and charcoal. Place a 2 cm drainage layer at the bottom of the pot. It is unnecessary to compact the soil strongly because the plant needs loose soil to allow air to reach the roots.
a) Propagation by division
Anthurium Papillilaminum is propagated by dividing large plants and separating lateral shoots. This is the easiest way. The procedure is usually carried out during transplantation.
The division is made with a sharp knife, the places of the cuts are powdered with crushed coal. After being placed in a separate pot, the separated plants are watered very carefully. If they are waterlogged, they will not take root.
b) Seed propagation
Ripe seeds should be planted immediately cleaned of pulp because they quickly lose viability. The seeds are laid out on the surface of the earth. They are not added drop-wise from above but only lightly pressed to the ground and sprayed from a spray bottle.
A container with planted seeds is placed in a mini-greenhouse and put in a warm place. Shoots will appear after 7-14 days.
Diseases and pests
Although Anthurium Papillilaminum is quite demanding to care for, it is not often attacked by various diseases and pests. Of the diseases can be rot of the stem and roots.
It usually appears due to excessive moisture and low temperatures. To combat rot, you need to observe the correct watering and temperature.
If rot appears on the stem or roots, this part of the plant is cut out, watering is sharply reduced, and the pot is dried and treated with fungicides like (topsin and bayleton).
Ticks, scale insects, and aphids also attack anthurium Papillilaminum. When a scale insect appears, it is picked by hand, and the plant is washed with soapy water.
They are sprayed with insecticides (fitoverm and actelik) with many insects. Infusions of garlic, hot peppers and orange peels help well to fight aphids, but if there is too much of it, they resort to chemicals (insecticides).
Anthurium papillilaminum is a beautiful houseplant that requires regular watering to survive. It does well with sufficient sunlight and needs to be kept from less than 3 feet window.
Anthurium papillilaminum loves soil, which is well-drained. If you repot it, you don’t have to add fertilizers each time because they can double in size.